Spanish Tortilla (not Frittata!)

I was missing my Spanish breakfasts this morning, so I took the time to make a Spanish tortilla (with some help from José Andrés).

This tortilla is everywhere in Spain – on breakfast buffets, at tapas, served as appetizers. In fact, the first one I tasted in Spain was on a tapas tour in Barcelona, at the beginning of my trip. It also appeared as an hors d’ouevre at the heavy hors d’oeuvre cocktail party that closed out my tour of southern Spain.

As I spied it arriving at our table on the tapas tour, I said- “Oh, the frittata” – I mean, I knew it was a common Spanish dish – and got a sideways look from my tour guide leader. “No, tortilla!”, he said. It was one of several indications I got over the next few weeks of the similarity of, but also, rivalry between, Spanish and Italian cuisine. I got an even bigger sideways look, and a bit of a sigh when I said I preferred prosciutto to Iberico ham. Ah well…

I often make frittatas, but finish them in the oven, rather than on the stovetop. This method of flipping them onto the plate, and finishing them stovetop, produces a fluffier “omelette” if you will (aha! French, too!), without the addition of any cream or milk, which I often add to baked frittata mixtures.

This is a simple and satisfying breakfast, and only slightly more time consuming than an American style omelette. Slices can be saved and served as a lunch or tapas style dish later in the day, too, but it’s really best served immediately out of the pan.

Spanish Tortilla

This recipe serves a very hearty breakfast for one, but can serve two to three, if served on a breakfast buffet, as we had most mornings on tour. My Spanish breakfasts generally included a slice of tortilla, a couple of slices of ham, a croissant, a wedge or two of cheese and maybe some fruit or tomato.

• 1/2 cups oil – I used a mixture of extra virgin olive oil and canola
• 1 medium large potato – about 1/2 pound, peeled and thinly sliced (I used a mandoline for even slices)
• 1/2 large brown onion, thinly sliced, about 1/2 cup
• 4 large eggs
• Kosher salt (@ 1-2 teaspoons) and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Dip a tiny edge of a potato slice in the oil to make sure it’s hot enough. Then add half the potato slices. Work in two or three batches so that the potatoes aren’t crowded. Drain the slices on paper towels, then sprinkle them with kosher salt.
2. Spoon about 2-3 tablespoons of the oil into a sauté pan. Add the onion slices then sauté them, over medium heat, until slightly caramelized, about 6-8 minutes. Lift them out of the oil with a strainer or slotted spoon, then place then in a bowl.
3. Break the eggs into a mixing bowl, and whisk them until mixed but still retaining “their thick gelatinous quality” (as Jose Andres says). Whisk in about 1 teaspoon of the salt and some black pepper. Then add the potato and onion slices to the bowl.
4. Add a tablespoon or two of the frying oil, over medium heat, to a 6-inch non-stick sauté pan, then add the potato and onion slices to the pan. As the oil begins to smoke slightly, add the eggs to the pan. Swirl the eggs in the pan, and continuously lift the edges of the eggs slightly with a rubber spatula, allowing the uncooked eggs to fill in underneath, as they begin to cook. then cook for about 30 seconds without swirling. Lower the heat and continue cooking for a few minutes. When the edges are cooked, and the center is only slightly wobbly still, slip the tortilla onto a plate by placing the plate over the pan and flipping it in. Then slip the uncooked side of the tortilla down, back into the pan. Cook for another minute or so. Be careful not to overcook it. Sprinkle with a bit more kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, then serve immediately.